Eldorado Peak is considered the “Queen of the Cascade River“. The peak is perched at the edge of the largest contiguous ice-sheet in the lower 48 states known as the Klawatti-Inspiration-McAlister icecap. The climb presents a moderate challenge with amazing views of Dorado Needle, Forbidden Peak, Mount Buckner, Mount Logan, Johannesburg and the other peaks of the Ptarmigan Traverse. The final Knife-edge summit ridge offers a thrilling and extremely exposed snow traverse. Northwest Mountain Guides guided ascent climbs the moderate Eldorado and Inspiration glaciers and ascends the East Ridge to the summit. On the approach we climb steeply through heavy timber which gives way to a beautiful alpine basin. The three day ascent provides adequate time to summit and our professional guides will introduce the basic mountaineering skills necessary to make the climb. Related climbs: Sahale Peak, Mount Baker, Mount Shuksan, Mount Olympus
Do you want to learn mountaineering? Eldorado Peak can be guided as a four day Intro to Mountaineering Course or six day Expedition Mountaineering Course. Taking a mountaineering course will help prepare you for the challenges of climbing higher peaks. NWMG courses allow for further instruction of climbing and mountaineering skills. Including step kicking, ice axe techniques, self-arrest, crampon usage, glacier travel, crevasse rescue and rope techniques.
Flight Schedule: USA - Seattle (SEA)
Climbs begins and ends in North Cascades NP
Day 1 • Hike to High Camp
Meet 9:00am at Sedro-Woolley Ranger Station. Gear check and drive to the trailhead. Hike to camp at the base of the Inspiration Glacier. Basic skills review. (D)
Day 2 • Summit Day • Eldorado Peak • 8,876ft
Summit day starts early. Begin climbing the Inspiration Glacier from camp to the base of the summit pyramid. We climb snow slopes before reaching the final exposed knife edge ridge to the summit. Descend to camp. (B)(D)
Day 3 • Hike to Trailhead
After breakfast we pack our gear and return to the trailhead. (B)
Itinerary Notes: NWMG makes every effort to uphold the scheduled itinerary, although our guides are given discretion to adapt the itinerary for reasons beyond our control or due to the needs of the group. Meal schedule: (B) Breakfast (L) Lunch (D) Dinner
Program start time & location: 9:00 am
Eldorado Peak
Mount Baker Ranger District
810 State Route 20
Sedro-Woolley, WA 98284
Deposit and Payments
$500.00 deposit includes reservation fee, due with application
Balance due 90 days prior to departure
Services included
North Cascades NP fees
Guided climb
Scheduled meals during the climb
Professional mountain guide
All group equipment (including tents, stoves, pickets, ropes)
Services not included
Domestic Airfare
Trailhead parking pass fees
Lunch and snack food
Personal gear
Hotels or lodging
Trip cancellation insurance
Medical and evacuation coverage
Staff gratuities
A complete clothing and equipment list specific to your program will be sent to you in the pre-departure information upon reservation. For your safety and comfort it’s extremely important that you adhere strictly to the equipment list.
Head and Face:
Upper Body:
Lower Body:
Footwear:
Drinking:
Personal Health and First Aid
Prior climbing experience is beneficial. Basic snow and ice climbing skills are introduced during the program. Above average physical conditioning is required for most climbs in the Pacific Northwest. No high altitude experience is required.
Mount Rainier is physically demanding, and your ability to enjoy this adventure depends on your overall health and fitness. Many consider Mount Rainer the toughest endurance climb in the lower 48 states. A typical day includes eight to twelve hours of climbing with over 4,000 feet of elevation gain.
We suggest you begin your training program at least four months prior to departure depending on your current conditioning. Walking up steep hills and stair climbing are both excellent ways to condition your lower body. Begin slowly, without the weight of a pack, eventually adding weight as you increase your training pace. In order to condition yourself to carry the weight, it will be important to take long hikes (4-6 hours) with a weighted pack at least one or two times a week. The best training for mountaineering is to carry a loaded pack up and down hills or small mountains. Hike uphill without breaks for at least an hour at a time when possible. Then break 10-15 minutes at the most and then continue hiking uphill for at least another hour. Do this as much and as often as you can. This is certainly not the only way to train but is probably one of the best ways to train for climbing big mountains. Don’t worry about your pace, this will increase over time, instead hike uphill slower if needed without taking as many breaks. Work at maintaining an even respiratory rate.
Unfortunately many of you don’t live near good hills or mountains so then you will need to find another activity that will help increase your endurance. Supplement this with running, cycling, swimming, racquet sports, weight training, etc. for additional aerobic conditioning your heart and lungs. Any time spent at altitude will also prove beneficial. Remember mountain climbing is an activity where you slowly climb uphill over long periods of time while carrying heavy to a moderate amount of weight.